STUDDED LEATHER: FROM ARMOUR TO ATTITUDE

An example of the art of customising to reflect your inner self outwardly, and one of the most striking embellishments adopted by different subcultures of all varieties: studded leather.

You can trace back the combination of metal and hide to armour worn by the Romans, Celts, or Samurais. Metal studs were a practical means to hold together panels of reinforced leather. It was not until the Middle Ages that their use moved from the practical to the aesthetic, when they were adopted on armour to appear more menacing to the enemy. Their usage in any context outside of war is a modern one. The stud’s appearance in subcultural circles as fashion adornments came as suddenly as the appearance of youth groups themselves.

The Bikers of the 1950s and 1960s were one of the first groups to use the studs, adorning their leather jackets with studs to complement the patches and chains to create a full-on “Ton Up” look (Ton Up indicating the bikes being ridden at 100mph plus).

As the seventies arrived, studded leather leapt into other subcultures. Judas Priest went from performing in bell bottoms and floral shirts to suddenly riding motorcycles in studded leather harnessing whips. The Heavy Metal devotees would, in a similar fashion to the Bikers, adorn their jackets with studs, often framing the iconic patches of the bands that they worshipped.

Punks would take studded collars designed for fighting dogs and scour fetish boutiques to acquire studded goods—all to look threatening, which harkens back to the efforts made in the Middle Ages. The leather studded punk jacket was a piece of art, and a fully studded jacket almost impossible to wear on account of its weight. Leather studded belts, wristbands and chokers completed the look.

One of the more recent uses of studs has been in fetish culture—where military uniforms, armour and torture equipment were drawn as inspiration for S&M and the garments associated. Leather belts, neckbands or chokers, body harnesses and straps are often adorned with metal studs.

The Halfmoon leather goods collection uses studs in abundance on a selection of belts, wristbands, chokers, keychains and keyrings.