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Product History - Original Commando Boot

THE ORIGINAL COMMANDO BOOT

Together with the Tracker and Stormer, the Commando Boot is one of the most recognisable products in the Underground Originals collection.

Introduced in the 1980s and bearing the serial number 7703, the Commando draws upon two enduring British footwear traditions: the industrial work boot and the military combat boot. Combining the functionality of both, it has become one of Underground’s defining styles and a symbol of authenticity, individuality, and unisex expression.

While no single brand can claim ownership of the work boot archetype, Underground played a significant role in championing the style throughout the 1980s and 1990s, long after many had moved away from it. By the late 1990’s it had become a style synonymous with Underground.

Today, the Commando remains an icon of British subcultural style.

A selection from our 1980's brochure displaying the trademark Union Jack Commando and the distinctive combat influences.

FROM FACTORIES TO THE FRONT LINE

The origins of the Commando Boot can be traced to the rapid growth of British industry.

Heavy manufacturing demanded durable footwear capable of protecting workers in factories, foundries, mills, and workshops. Thick rubber soles, reinforced toe caps, and robust leather uppers became essential features of the industrial work boot.

At the same time, military footwear evolved to meet the demands of modern combat. Cleated sole units designed for grip across difficult terrain, secure lace-up constructions, and hard-wearing materials created the template for the modern combat boot.

The Commando combines these two traditions.

Its distinctive cleated sole pattern and utilitarian lace-up design draw inspiration from military footwear, while the steel toe cap traces its origins to the workshops and foundries that powered British industry.

The cleated rubber sole used on the Commando Boots

A SUBCULTURAL ICON

The steel cap boot became an essential part of working-class dress in Britain and was adopted by successive generations of youth cultures.

Skinheads embraced the style during the late 1960s, reflecting the movement’s working-class roots. By the 1980s, media coverage increasingly associated certain factions of skinhead culture with football terrace violence, overshadowing the movement’s multicultural origins.

As the decade progressed, steel cap boots were adopted by punk communities, whose creative energy and anti-establishment attitudes gave the style renewed relevance.

During the late 1980s and 1990s, the silhouette crossed the Atlantic and found new audiences through grunge, Riot Grrrl, and cyberpunk culture. The style later gained popularity amongst fashion-forward youth in Tokyo’s Harajuku district.

Across decades and continents, the Commando Boot has remained a symbol of individuality and self-expression.

A GLOBAL SUCCESS

The Commando Boot quickly found audiences far beyond the United Kingdom.

The collection became a success across Europe, including the emerging markets of Eastern Europe during a period of significant political and cultural change. Post Perestroika in Russia the Underground Commando boot was highly sought after.

From there, the boot established a strong following in the United States before expanding into Japan, Thailand, Malaysia, Hong Kong, and, later, China and Nepal.

The Commando became one of Underground’s most successful products and played a major role in establishing the brand’s international reputation.

WE ASKED OUR FOUNDER

“The offer at that time on the work boot style was pretty much limited to black leather and, of course, cherry leather. I was really interested in using rub-off leathers for the collection.

I had seen burgundy rub-off leather being used in the production of traditional brogues and loafers in some of the factories and knew we should try that out on the steel cap boot.

Once we had that underway, we moved on to other colours and then found a tannery that could produce printed leather with the rub-off effect. The Commando Boot collection really took off from there.”

Working closely with factories in Northampton, Underground developed a unique collection of Commando Boots that expanded beyond the traditional black and cherry leather options.

Rub-off leathers became synonymous with Underground, particularly the printed designs that helped define the collection. Among these, the Union Jack rub-off leather emerged as one of the most distinctive expressions of the style.

The combination of the 10-eyelet Commando Boot and the printed flag created a quintessentially British interpretation of the steel cap boot.

ABOVE-The Tartan Punk Rub Off Leather Commando Boot BELOW- Production of the Commando Boot in the early 1990's

THE DETAILS

The Commando Boot is available with a single, double, or triple rubber sole and is produced using premium leather uppers, alongside selected vegan-friendly alternatives.

Signature features include:

  • Steel toe cap construction, available in internal and external cap versions
  • 10-eyelet lace-up fastening
  • Distinctive Commando cleated sole tread
  • Three-row puritan stitching
  • Leather and vegan-friendly upper options
  • Single, double, and triple sole variations

THE EXTERNAL CAP COMMANDO BOOT

The exposed steel toe cap version has been part of the collection since the late 1980s.

Originally seen in industrial settings, the external steel cap offers a more overtly raw and utilitarian aesthetic, creating a striking alternative to the concealed toe cap version.

Over time, the external cap has established itself as an icon in its own right.

AN ALLGENDER ICON

From its introduction, the Commando Boot was sold as an allgender style.

Sales data consistently demonstrated strong demand across the full size range, reinforcing its universal appeal.

As fashion increasingly embraced fluidity and self-expression, the Commando continued to find new audiences. In 2015, it was selected as part of Selfridges’ Agender project, reaffirming its place as a style that transcends traditional categories.

Today, a new generation continues to embrace the Commando for its authentic heritage, uncompromising construction, and distinctive silhouette.

Trends and fashions ebb and flow, but true icons endure.

The Underground Original Commando Boot remains exactly that: an icon.

 

The current Commando range includes our black leather, cherry leather and printed leather options on the single, double and triple sole.

The Commando boot is available in size UK2 through to UK15

You can buy the Commando collection here  SHOP COMMANDO

You can also configure the Commando Boot selecting from our library of leathers and custom make your own design.SHOP CUSTOM COMMANDO

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