UNDER - Study and Research

Where Underground expresses subculture, UNDER looks beneath it, examining the structures, histories and conditions that produce it.

UNDER is the research arm of Underground.

Where Underground expresses subculture, and British subculture in particular,  UNDER looks beneath it, examining the structures, histories and conditions that produce it.

Subculture is often understood through its surface: style, music, attitude. UNDER begins elsewhere. It works from source material, archives, photography, spaces and venues to trace how subculture forms, evolves and is remembered.

Operating across research, collaboration and product, UNDER engages directly with the people and artefacts that define cultural moments. Photographers, musicians, archivists and participants are not references; they are contributors. The work is not retrospective in tone, but investigative in method, less about recreating the past than understanding its construction.

Each project is developed as a study. A focused body of research translated into a combination of objects, documentation and context. Products are not standalone items, but outcomes, material expressions of a wider enquiry.

UNDER is a research platform that publishes studies as and when projects emerge. Some studies revisit earlier work, archives and collaborations, while others examine contemporary cultural subjects. The studies do not follow a linear timeline; each represents a distinct investigation into the people, objects and ideas that shape subculture.

UNDER does not sit outside Underground. It shares the same cultural lineage, but shifts the emphasis:
From expression to examination, from surface to structure, from image to context.

Study 001 UNDER ARCHIVE: ORIGINS (2013)

The first UNDER project was developed in 2013 as an independent exploration of product, image and cultural process. Although conceived as a standalone initiative, it established many of the ideas that now define UNDER: research, context and the translation of cultural enquiry into objects.

Study 002 ripped AND TORN 2026

This study examines RIPPED AND TORN. A punk fanzine produced by Tony Drayton between 1976 and 1979. Emerging from the first wave of British punk, the zine functioned as both document and participant, capturing the movement as it formed, while actively shaping its and cultural language.

Study 003

This study is coming soon

Study 004

This study is coming soon

UNDER PARIS SHOWROOM 2013
RIPPED AND TORN -THE ZINE 50 YEARS ON 2026

Each study results in a series of artefacts that translate research into material form. Informed by archives, source material and cultural collaboration, these objects are conceived as extensions of the investigation rather than standalone products. They embody the ideas, references and narratives uncovered through the study, offering a tangible connection to the people, movements and moments being examined. Designed to be worn and lived with, they are also documents of enquiry, physical traces of an ongoing exploration of subculture and its construction.

The underground, by definition, is never fixed. Once it becomes known, it is no longer underground and something new must take its place. It is always forming, reforming and resisting definition. We are fascinated by that process. UNDER exists to explore it.

 

2 August 2026

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